Ingredients
Tyrrhenian fish: the varieties that arrive every morning in Tuscany
Which fish are found in the Tyrrhenian Sea and end up on Tuscan tables? From mantis shrimp to octopus, a guide to the varieties of the Tuscan sea.
The Tyrrhenian Sea and Tuscan cuisine: an ancient bond
The Tyrrhenian Sea washes the Tuscan coast for approximately three hundred and fifty kilometres - from the mouth of the Magra in the province of Massa to Monte Argentario in the province of Grosseto. This coastline is different for almost its entire length: the sandy and low-lying Versilia coast, the rocky shores of the Livorno area, the beaches of Elba, the Maremma coast with its pine forests and shallow seabeds. And each stretch of coast has its own fish, its own fishing traditions, its own recipes.
But the Tyrrhenian Sea does not only nourish the Tuscans who live on the coast. For centuries, fresh fish has travelled inland - on mules, then on carts, then in refrigerated vans - reaching the markets of Siena, Arezzo, Florence, and the tratttorie of half of Tuscany. Tuscan seafood cuisine is not a border cuisine, reserved for those who live on the coast - it is a cuisine of the entire region.
The main ports that supply the Tuscan hinterland are Livorno and Viareggio - two fish markets where in the early morning tens of tonnes of fresh fish, freshly landed, pass through. From there, the cold chain takes the fish in all directions: towards Florence in the north, towards Siena and Poggibonsi in the south, towards Arezzo and the Valdarno to the east.
Fish of the Tyrrhenian: the varieties actually caught
The Tyrrhenian Sea is a relatively enclosed sea, with seabeds ranging from the shallow sandy areas of the Versilia coast to the deep rocky reefs of the Tuscan Archipelago. This variety of habitats produces a notable diversity of species.
Bottom and reef fish: scorpionfish (both red and black) is the king of the Tyrrhenian seabed - its gelatinous flesh is fundamental for stocks and for cacciucco. The weever fish (venomous but tasty), the tub gurnard, the cuckoo wrasse, the monkfish - all mid-depth fish with firm flesh and intense flavours.
Pelagic fish: tuna (especially offshore from the islands), anchovies of excellent quality in the northern Tyrrhenian, grey mullet from coastal lagoons, sea bass and sea bream in rocky areas.
Cephalopods: octopus is abundant on the rocky seabeds of the Tyrrhenian and has a flavour that the Atlantic octopus cannot match. Cuttlefish - small cuttlefish in spring, large cuttlefish in autumn-winter - with their ink that colours and flavours the cacciucco broth. Squid and calamari in the deeper areas.
Crustaceans: mantis shrimp (cicale di mare) are perhaps the most typical crustacean of the Tyrrhenian - with their sweet flesh and striped shell, they are a fundamental element of the cacciucco presentation. Pink prawns, larger gamberi in the deeper waters, scampi in the sandy-muddy areas.
Mantis shrimp, scorpionfish, octopus: the stars of cacciucco
Three species above all are the absolute protagonists of Tuscan cacciucco.
The scorpionfish: ugly, bony, with a head that makes up half its total weight. But in the head, bones and skin lies the gelatin that gives cacciucco broth its dense and enveloping structure that no other fish can replicate. The red scorpionfish (Scorpaena scrofa) is the largest and most flavourful - it can reach one kilogram in weight. The black scorpionfish is smaller but equally tasty.
The octopus: the Tyrrhenian produces octopus of excellent quality, especially on the rocky seabeds of the Livorno coast and the Archipelago. Tyrrhenian octopus has firmer and more flavourful flesh than Atlantic octopus - the difference is felt in the cooking, when the broth becomes dense and almost violet. Tuscan octopus does not need prolonged beating to tenderise - pre-freezing or slow cooking in a pot is sufficient.
The mantis shrimp (Squilla mantis): this is the most representative crustacean of the Tyrrhenian, and its presentation on the cacciucco - split lengthways, with the claws open and the flesh visible - is one of the most recognisable visual signs of the dish. The flesh of the mantis shrimp is sweet and delicate, almost similar to lobster but with a more intense marine note.
How fresh fish reaches the inland
The logistics of fresh fish is one of the most important challenges for an inland Tuscan restaurant like Ristorante Alcide in Poggibonsi. Forty kilometres from the port of Livorno is not an insurmountable obstacle - but it requires organisation and reliability in the cold chain.
The fish markets of Livorno and Viareggio operate in the early hours of the morning. Fish auctions begin between 3 and 5 in the morning, when the boats return from sea or when fish arrives from recent storage. Wholesalers and restaurateurs who have direct relationships with suppliers can select the fish at source and organise delivery in the early hours.
An inland restaurant working with daily fresh fish must build over time a trust relationship with reliable suppliers - not necessarily the largest wholesalers, but those who understand the importance of quality and punctuality in deliveries. This kind of relationship is built over years, not weeks.
Seasonal fish in Tuscany: the calendar
Tuscan fish has precise seasonality - respecting it means eating fish at its best.
Spring (March-May): small cuttlefish (tiny tender cuttlefish) arrive, along with Tyrrhenian anchovies (February-June is the best period), young octopus. It is the season of the first reef fish after the winter cold.
Summer (June-August): sea bass and bream abound in fishing areas. A difficult season for some species entering their reproductive period (no fishing in protected areas). Summer fish tends to be more delicate and less flavourful than winter fish.
Autumn (September-November): the best season for almost everything. Scorpionfish, large octopus, mantis shrimp, prawns, cuttlefish - everything at maximum flavour. Autumn cacciucco is the best of the year.
Winter (December-February): scorpionfish, conger eel, moray eel, mantis shrimp - deep-water fish that are at their best quality in winter. Winter is the cacciucco season par excellence.
Fish at Ristorante Alcide: from boat to table
At Ristorante Alcide, in Poggibonsi, fresh Tyrrhenian fish arrives every morning from Livorno and Viareggio. The fish selection depends on the season and the morning’s availability - there is no fixed menu independent of what is at the market.
This approach requires flexibility in the kitchen and in communicating with guests - sometimes the cacciucco is made with the octopus available that day, sometimes with more abundant mantis shrimp, sometimes with particularly large and fragrant scorpionfish. But it is this variation that tells the truth of the Tyrrhenian Sea - not a standardised product, but the sea as it is every day.
Want to taste it for real?
At Ristorante Alcide you will find it on the table - made the right way, with fresh ingredients and the care of the Ancillotti family since 1849.
